We spent another restful weekend with Elize, Eugene and Cindy in PE, where we relaxed, went to the beach to fly a kite, met friendly neighbours, braai’d and played Trivial Pursuit. Monday morning was a very sad departure as it was so much fun to be together for the month, especially outside the work environment of Dubai that had initially brought us together. We hope that we will get Elize over to Aus soon!
On Monday we landed in Durban greeted by grey skies and drizzle – little did we know that this was to be the prevailing weather pattern over the next three weeks, although it was meant to be “the hottest part” of our trip. We had planned to spend a few days relaxing on the north coast but the rain drove us into the Drakenberg (“the Berg” as Durbanites call it).
We stayed at an unusual place called The Antbear in the Central Drakenberg between Estcourt and Mooi River, on a small domestic farm run by Connie and John, who were full of personality and very entertaining. The farm was filled with animal life, ridgebacks, pigs, chickens, horses, mules, donkeys and sheep happily settled with caring owners. John’s dad Bruce is a carpenter and each chalet had all of its doors, window panes and furniture handmade by Bruce and John – with unusual fixtures and fittings. Breakfasts and dinners were communal with homemade breads, scones and puddings. The evening banter was fun with conversations concerning London life, the climate, South African (and world!) politics. During the days the clouds eventually lifted and so we managed a couple of hikes - one to a rock art site in Kamberg with beautiful views of hills and waterfalls rivalling the Lake District. The art itself was fascinating – painted by the San bushman with eland blood mixed with fat and charcoal or ochre the figures depicted hunting scenes of eland and medicine men. The eland was regarded as the staff of life both physically ad spiritually for the bushman providing food, warmth and inner peace. Of course the bushman was wiped out by the white settlers and only some descendants remain. We also ventured deeper into the Central Berg to Giants Castle hiking through fields full of bird and insect life to the songs of crickets. Unfortunately time ran out and we never visited the famous Amphitheatre further north – listed as one of those 500 things to do before you die so I guess we can’t die yet J.
