The lemurs made a terrific noise during the night flinging mangoes at each other, the rain did not stop for 3 days and nights. This was most unexpected for January so we settled into a routine of reading, puzzles, and getting to know the delightful owners Jose and Isabella, Jacques and Sandra an international group…Italian,Portuguese Angolan, Dutch and South African

January 9: Antananarivo to Nosy Sakatia

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Up at 3 am for our flight only to discover on reaching the airport that it had been delayed by 12 hours. We spent a very pleasant morning lounging round the hotel pool until it was airport time.

The plane landed in the dark at Nosy Be at about 6.30 pm. After the usual wrestling match in the car through mud and potholes we arrived at a tiny beach where after some rudimentary flashing of lights an open dive boat appeared out of the blackness bucking violently in the waves rain and wind. We clambered through the surf and sat bemused as the crew tried valiantly to clear the beach through the waves and against the wind and then off we went snarling through the night lashing rain and sizeable waves. Much to our relief a small locker was opened up and we were handed not the expected life jackets, but some rain jackets. After what seemed like an eternity( but was no more than 20 mins ) we arrived soaking wet at Nosy Sakatia Lodge our home for the next 5 nights. We both had a stiff drink and a shower before supper and then to bed. 

January 8: Andasibe to Antananarivo

The next morning we girded our loins ready for the drive back to the capital. It was a slow journey due to flooding and landslides and not wanting to flog the motor. We enjoyed a typical Malagasy meal in Tana and then pressed onto our hotel via a central city bird wetlands sanctuary where we saw lots of herons. Our hotel Bois Vert was very pleasant set in landscaped mature trees and gardens. 

January 7: Andasibe

We have a road! Overnight most of the water on the road disappeared meaning more of the park would be accessible! After a good breakfast ( still cooked on a wood fire as the generator was not on yet and neither was the electricity) we set off for another locally managed park. The national park was to be closed for a week due to the cyclone but we were happy to go to this one as the income goes straight to the local community. 

We were treated to an array of wildlife - including more Indri who even came down to the ground to eat soil as they had upset tummies, paradise fly catchers in their nest, a Pygmy kingfisher and the elusive and large mossy bark gecko almost impossible to see (and has almost grabbed top spot from the satanic faced leaftail gecko). 

After lunch we visited the local village and church before embarking on our night walk (the electricity finally came on too!). There we finally saw a woolly lemur and got a great view of Goodman”s mouse lemur as he munched away on a cricket. We happened upon a rather unusual elephant ear chameleon plus many frogs and Morgan’s moth ( a rather drab little fellow!)

January 6: Andasibe underwater

We awoke to much quiet after all the wind and rain and plenty of sunshine. We got dressed and ready for exploring the rainforest to find ourselves marooned on our own island almost as the river had burst its banks and we were flooded in…. Unfortunately our 4x4 was flooded too as we had to park behind a broken down truck and it was now being cleaned and dried out….luckily no water got into the engine so God willing we were mobile or would be once the water cleared. However all roads were flooded so we were led by Maurice our guide to the village via the back cross country route through the woods and over several hills. The river was torrential and had risen some 4 metres, homes were flooded as were footpaths and fields. 

We walked to a locally managed conservation park where we were greeted by many critters enjoying the water - tree boas, frogs, Pygmy kingfishers and the indri - Madagascar’s largest sifaka with the sweetest snout, loudest call and shortest little tail. We also revelled in watching a couple of brown lemurs throughly enjoying themselves munching away on the fruit of a nearby tree - nothing was going to stop them! 

After a long and hot walk back to the guesthouse we spent the afternoon relaxing watching the river water drop and hoping we would get out the next day to be able to see more of the park….oh and waiting for the electricity to come back on!

January 5: Ifotaka to Andasibe

Well this was a day to remember and ended up driving Nick back to scotch whiskey. Major travel day. 

We started off with an “easy” 4 hour drive to cover 150 k back to Fort Dauphine  navigating through huge potholes, corroded and broken bridges, trucks, goats, cattle, people all sharing the road. We lunched at a delightful restaurant overlooking the surf beach which was quite stunning. Our flight to the capital was uneventful and we were met by the smiling and reassuring Nicky. Into the back of the almost new Toyota Land Cruiser and off we went for what we thought was a 3 hour drive…

Two hours into it Nicky proudly informed us we were travelling on Madagascar’s most dangerous road and that the US embassy would not let its citizens drive on it if possible. We wondered whether we were happy to be non-Americans at this stage. Some 4.5 hours later having battled torrential rain and winds on a road again full of massive holes and huge semi trailers coming from the seaport we arrived at our guesthouse in Andasibe-Mantadia National Park. Quivering with exhaustion we had to stumble through lashing rain and wild winds to get to the reception. It was dark, the power had blacked out due to the storm. Little did we know it was a Cat 2 Cyclone called Ava.

January 4: Mandrare River Camp

Another early start, this time to take a dawn walk around the camp surrounds and down to the river where the week before 3 Nile crocodiles had been spotted. Alas no creatures of any sort were seen but the light was lovely and soft and the grass covered in dew. Later in the morning we went to the weekly market which our guide had informed us was a “Meet Market” where young men and women advertise their availability for marriage by wearing a comb in their hair..

It was a colourful affair with the best retail principles being observed….fashion, produce,livestock, and even a food court and entertainment area in evidence. Zebu cattle,goats and chickens all for sale. It became quite crowded quite quickly and the heat of the day shortened our visit, there was very little for a tourist to buy despite our hope of injecting cash into the local economy. We rested by the plunge pool  during the afternoon which was a godsend as the temperature was a very dry 39c with no air con! At sunset we were taken to a most idyllic spot to enjoy sundowners amongst the Baobab trees. A surprise awaited us in the form of local villagers entertainment of singing and dancing and performing a musical play in the firelight. It was very special.