The next day took us via canoe to the gallery forest which sits on sacred land across the river. Sacred meant that you cannot point to anything using you finger or pee anywhere. So when we saw our first troop of ring- tailed lemurs there was much hand pointing but no peeing! They live in big troops led by the dominant female and many had little babies on their backs - always curious to interact with us as much as they would allow themselves. The trees themselves were tamarind trees - large climbing trees with lush canopies of broad shade giving leaves it was a quiet and spiritual setting with easy relaxed walking much to see including a harrier hawk, snow coloured sifakas (Verraux’s), crested kua and paradise fly catchers. Reluctantly we left this shaded sanctuary and headed back across the river for our lunch under our own tamarind trees at the river camp. And the plunge pool as we sweated through a 40C day.
The evening tour was a cultural one during which we learnt all about the Tandory traditions and visited Analoalo a traditional village. The Tandory people live in huts made of octopus tree wood - just enough room for a few beds - and share kitchens and storage rooms. They work in the sisal fields cutting 3000 leaves a day for a salary of USD 1.5 a day and subsist with corn, cassava, sweet potato and wild fruits such as cactus fruit and mango. They have around 6 to 8 children and the husbands move to the clans of their wives but can have more than one if they can afford it. Wealth is counted in zebu and when you die 80% your wealth gets buried or sacrificed with you - bringing everyone still alive well and truly back down to earth….no need for an inheritance tax!
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