Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Coast to Coast Days 1-5

Well,my draft blog has disappeared so start again. Judy and Peter met me at Manchester airport,looking out of the window my heart sank as the plane banked across the countryside grey and wet....in fact it turned out sunny the next day which I spent buying last minute things like waterproof trousers etc.
Barry arrived by train in the afternoon and after attending a marvellous dinner party where we all ate far too much we went back to Judy's cottage which is delightfully positioned in the middle of their sheep farming acreage so green her garden is blooming a lovely place to live in the summer.
Anyway in the morning Peter kindly drove us all the way to St Bees to start the Coast to Coast walk the weather was horrible but as soon as we got to the coast it brightened up and after dipping our feet in the Irish Sea we set off....more to follow disaster humour pain and anguish ......see the next edition when I have more time...


Walk Day 1 contd

We stopped for lunch in a hedge and wolfed down some tasty home made sandwiches and Judy's fruit cake what a good idea that was full of energy we set off again and before long came across a truly idyllic scene...there on a village green a cricket match was in progress and after enquiry we learned it was the semi finals of the English Villages Cricket Tournament the winner of this particular match was to progress to the Final which is held at Lords. The home team of Cleator Moor looked in a strong position  with the opposition at 89 for 9. We subsequently learned they won so Judy is packing her fruit cake in anticipation of a day at Lords.

After a little more walking with the incomparable Barry and his trusty OS Maps around his neck we progressed to be faced with  a cairn called Dent. A rather modest little pimple I thought shifting effortlessly into my Goat Gear. Before long I started to feel mild twinges in my knees this soon increased and at the start of the descent I knew I was in trouble as every step became agony as if red hot nails were being driven into the side of my knees the only light relief was Judy falling over and sliding uncontrollably down the grassy three in one slope on her shiny water proof trousers. I am afraid I slowed every body up and we finally limped into the farm yard of Low Cock How Farm at about 5 pm. We had walked 24 k.

There we were greeted by a typical Cumbrian farmer the owner who regaled us with a most amusing set of stories about how a lot of people give up the coast to coast after one day! I knew how they felt as I morosely sipped my tea crouching in front of the cosy peat fire. We took a taxi into the local village and had dinner at the Shepherds Arms the food and red wine soon had me back in form and we got back to the farm and went to bed.

Day 2

The route is a 25 k today and I am extremely apprehensive. I could hardly walk down the stairs to breakfast as my knees were so sore,mmm.
After a breakfast which would have fed an entire rugby team we donned our back packs and set off. We were soon climbing up again but this time on rocks and uneven ground out came the sticks on we went up and up and then a gradual down and a steeper descent until we had lunch and watched a couple of shepherds trying to gather up their Herdys or mountain sheep with the aid of  five dogs much shouting and whistling and amazingly after what seemed like an age the sheep were all together and being driven down the hill.
As for us  the path just disappeared and we were struggling through boggy and very wet ground my sticks were being swallowed almost up to their handles, luckily my feet kept pretty dry walking was very slow and painful we reached a small settlement called Buttermere and had a most delicious cup of tea and thankfully caught the bus to the Scafell Hotel in Rosthwaite. What luxury awaited!

At this stage a big thank you to Judy and Barry who helped me enormously by changing the route, catching the bus, and helping carry my backpack on the last stage by the time I finished I looked like The Tinman from the Wizard of Oz trying not to use my knees.
The hotel was a delight the bed was comfy the bathroom was luxurious. We ate in the local pub and after a couple of reds I had a splendid sleep.

Day 3
I  decided to take the bus into Keswick to visit a couple of chemist shops to buy some anti inflammatory pills which I am not really allowed to take. I spent a great day chilling out and it was a hard decision but I successfully avoided visiting the well known Keswick Pencil Museum. the lady in the Tourist Centre informed me that back in the day there was a black market in graphite that used to be conducted in the pub next door. I took the bus to our next town which was Grasmere.

Grasmere and its little valley has been described by William Wordsworth ( who is incidentally buried there in the graveyard ) as "the fairest place on earth" and it was a picture. The Red Lion was comfortable it even had a pool! The town had a specialist shop which sold only jigsaw puzzles,amazing.

Day 4

The next morning I nervously I took an anti inflammatory pill after brekky and we set out. As things had been going badly upto then I half expected to start vomiting but this was not the case and although it was a bit of a battle I managed the whole day carefully creeping along like an old man. There were lots of up, lots of down, and very uneven surfaces. The views were breathtaking the weather cloudy warm and no rain. We had been joined by a friend of Judy called Richard who was a most amusing retired local solicitor he and Barry shot ahead and I was accompanied by a very friendly Londoner called Brian who together with his enormous Kiwi girlfriend are also doing the coast to coast so I expect we will see them again on the way. as usual Judy was very kind enquiring after my knee on a regular basis. As soon as we hit the flat I was away like a greyhound.....hopefully today will be the last of the very steep bits. We stayed the night in a comfortable guest house called The Moss House Guest House in Glenridding.

Richard informed us he knew of a great little pub The Travellers Rest so off we went spent an entertaining couple of hours sampling the local beer. We then met up with Richards wife Jen and another couple and had a rather disappointing meal in a very stylish restaurant the evening was lots of fun and we retired to bed at about ten.

Day 5

This is meant to be a long and arduous days walking  the weather forecast was for heavy rain so being sensible walkers we elected to take a ferry on Ullswater to avoid the predicted late afternoon downpour. We met up with a group of four Americans on the way a delightful lot with whom we could compare notes on the best possible route to Bampton a tiny hamlet almost on the edge of The Lake District. thankfully the terrain was flat the views stunning and the rain held off until we were snug in The Crown and Mitre where the accommodation was en suite and very comfortable. There is only a church and the pub in the village. On the walk we were able to see Scotland which is now quite close. We walked through moorland covered in purple heather with Ullswater Lake and as a back drop the fells. it was a great day and Once again Barry did a super job with his maps and even on one occasion we resorted to the compass. The telephone coverage in the Lake District is spasmodic so getting a signal for a GPS App is rare indeed. In the bar in the evening we met an Aussie girl who had gone over the top which is the route we were meant to take she showed us photos of pouring rain and descents that were almost vertical so we all agreed what a lucky escape we had had.
Imagine my surprise when I looked up from my pint and saw the familiar figure of Miles Speller coming into the bar. I had temporarily forgotten he was meeting us today. We had a jolly meal together and the plan is that Miles will join us for a few hours tomorrow.

Day 6

We had a latish start to our walk






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