Days 22 to 28 Hospital to Sarria 158 k´s

It has been a long time since our last comments this is due to the fact we went in a time capsule back to the early 1300´s when they had no internet access...I think they were happier in those times.

Ok we will try and recap what has happened, but just before we do there was a development with the Stalking Hun who you may recall latched onto Father Christmas. He was obviously easily shrugged off by FC and a couple of days ago we had blissfully forgotten all about him. Our bliss was to be shortlived, there we were having a lovely cold beer sitting by the river in the middle of Molinaseca, where the river was a sort of Lido for the local kids ie they splashed and swam around and before we knew what had happened there was a surge of water and a Speedo clad Franz appeared in front of us like the creature from the black lagoon. Unfortunately his speedos were eye level which was rather off putting to say the least... this was not the last we saw of him...

So enough of the Creature of the Black Lagoon for the time being.....

We have had THE best 7 days walking of the whole Camino......an easy day into Astorga (now renamed Extorta as we seemed to get consistently ripped off in this tiny touristy town) where we were greeted with one of gaudi´s more conservative pieces - the Archbishop´s Palace and a chocolate museum!

The next day (23), full of sugar we literally scampered off on our first real climb of the Camino through an isolated area called the Marageteria
(?). We stopped the night at Rabanal del Camino, a restored village which apparently has a population of no more than 50 (without pilgrim´s) where we were treated to some of the best food we have had and a very good and quiet night´s sleep (most unusual for this walk!).

Day 24 has been the best walk so far - we left at 7am and climbed to 1500m where we stayed for most of the day walking through heather, treated to glorious views in gorgeous sunshine. A tricky descent on loose slate and shale (but we beat some of the day trippers!!!) to Molinaseca.

From Molineseca (day 25) we headed into Bierzo - another wine region of Leon-Castilla - and ambled through vineyards munching on cherries which just dropped off the trees into our open palms. At Cacabelos (a key wine town in the region) we ate pulpo (octopus) for lunch, dined with a picnic by the river watching an old man catching his trout dinner for him and his wife....

Onto Villafranca (day 26) and into the Val Valcarce to Las Herrieras, listening to a babbling brook all day on our left! The Valcarce Valley was beautifully lush and alive with bird life and livestock. We stayed at a lovely old house in the middle of nowhere sipping wine on the terrace where we met a lovely German girl (Manuelle) and her Dad on their week´s walking holiday...

Onward we climbed to the Hobbit Burrow of O´Cebreiro, a climb of 800m through woods and fields and over our last set of mountains....a stunning stone church greeted us at the top as well as a biting wind! We stayed at 1200m most of the day and overnighted in a lovely albergue in Fonfria (where I had stayed before) where we enjoyed a delicious homecooked communal dinner with our fellow pilgrims.

Day 28 (today) and onto Serria where this is being written. It was a tricky day of walking with lots of downward direction we left early as we had a lot to cover ie 28k, the early morning mist snuggled into the folds of the hills ,the hedgerows were delicately decorated with the most intricate cobwebs which were shaped like 3 dimensional circus safety nets ,anyway thats what we thought. A lot of the walk was on wet muddy laneways with inclines of 5:1 and slimy wet stone and shale underfoot, this did not deter us and we skipped down like newborn lambs (not). We lumched at an isolated bar which was suddenly overrun by a coach load of English day trippers we scuttled out quick sharp.
It is funny we come across all different types of Pilgrims there is one type we have nicknamed ¨the tortoises¨they clatter along hunched over their sticks walking doggedly but slowly, we overtake them have a rest then there they are again.There is a particular african lady who we see all the time and we are dumbfounded as to how she appears in front of us all the time even tho we walk faster. This mystery was solved by Nikki who quietly informed me after about 3 days of this slow motion cat and mouse game that ....yes there were 2 African ladies and they were walking 0ne day apart!!